We'd been in the Andes Mountains in Bolivia's silver city of Potosí, one of the highest cities in the world at an altitude of 4,090 metres above sea level. Now we were on a bus travelling from Potosí, across the south-central part of Bolivia to the white city of Sucre, sitting at 2,810 metres above sea level.
 |
| The white city of Sucre, Bolivia |
Sucre, is a mid-sized city with a population of around 284,000. It is known as one of South America’s finest colonial cities, and is full of well-preserved white-washed buildings, earning it the name of "the White City" (aka La Cuidad Blanca). We were looking forward to spending some time there.
So we set off from Potosí, finding that once again, we were the only gringos on the bus.
Our fellow bus-travellers wore variations of bowler hats, hooped skirts, waistcoats and felted shoes. Most carried a colourful sack on their shoulder, or a package of produce. This uniform changed very little as we made the many drop-offs and pick-ups in isolated places along the route.
 |
| Crops growing in the dry soils of the Andes between Potosí and Sucre, Bolivia |
The land was sparsely populated with small mudbrick villages. Village life seemed to be based on tending llamas and alpacas, growing crops, and hoeing the earth by hand. The dry grey dirt looked like hard earth to make a living from.
We were on the edge of the Andes Mountains, winding around the mountain road at an altitude of between 2,800 and 3,900 metres. The road was in reasonable condition but we travelled through very rocky and steep countryside with sheer drop-offs in places.
 |
| Scenery on the winding, high-altitude road between Potosí and Sucre, Bolivia |
We did a lot of heavy breathing on that bus, but whether it was the high altitude or the tricky drive on such a high winding and windy road; who knows!
Then, after reaching a high mountain peak, we began an extremely steep
descent that seemed to go on and on. Eventually we made it down to a lower
level just as we approached the outskirts of Sucre. The driver did a great job
getting our very full bus down that mountain without burning out the brakes.
Finally, 4 hours after leaving Potosí, we arrived at the Sucre bus
station. We found a taxi there, and headed directly to our accommodation, Casa
Al Tronco at the edge of the Sucre city centre.
 |
| The outside of our hotel in Sucre, Bolivia |
After winding through Sucre's hilly narrow city streets, our taxi dropped us off at fairly unassuming and non-signposted green doors, that opened right onto the narrow footpath.
Through the door we found ourselves in a courtyard that had doors and steps leading off in all directions, and being warmly greeted by Tania and Ebo, our hosts. The Casa, inside those green doors, was absolutely charming.
 |
| "The Suite", our room at the Casa Al Tronco, Sucre, Bolivia |
We managed to get "The Suite" which is a large sunny room, overlooking the courtyard and the city. We instantly knew this was going to be a great place to relax.
Although Sucre is considered a high-altitude city, after coping with Potosí's very, very high altitude, we were confident that we could handle Sucre's altitude with no ill effects.
So after unpacking, we headed out and explored this interesting-looking hilly city.
 |
| Steep streets of Sucre (UNESCO), Bolivia |
Walking down the steep streets to the city centre, we passed many lovely old, old buildings. Some were small and quaint, while others were quite big and imposing; and these were just the suburbs!
Arriving into the centre, we could sense that this city had something special about it. We felt it had a look of historic grandeur, wealth, and sophistication, with clean streets, and cafes and restaurants dotted throughout.
 |
| Colonial architecture in Sucre (UNESCO), Bolivia |
This white city, abounds with beautiful buildings, most of which are...well...white.
Sucre was the capital of Bolivia in 1839. These days, Sucre is the constitutional capital of Bolivia, with the administrative capital being La Paz.
But it was founded by the Spanish as far back as 1538. A legacy of Spanish occupation, is Sucre's well-preserved historic colonial architecture, which has resulted in the city being designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
 |
| Colonial architecture and balconies in Sucre (UNESCO), Bolivia |
The architecture includes white stucco buildings with red clay-tiled roofs, wrought iron or carved wooden balconies, arched doorways with solid wooden doors.
Built in a compact grid of streets, it was very easy to walk, and to find your way around some of the elegant landmark buildings.
There were many that we admired and visited, including Casa de la Libertad (House of Freedom) which is one of Bolivia’s most significant buildings as it contains Bolivia’s declaration of Independence; Gobierno Autónomo Departamental de Chuquisaca, the local government building; and The Catedral Metropolitana de Sucre, the seat of the Roman Catholic Church in Bolivia.
 |
| Leigh at Plaza 25 de Mayo, Sucre (UNESCO), Bolivia |
These significant buildings are all situated around the beautiful Plaza 25 de Mayo, the main plaza of Sucre. They, along with the Plaza, represent the very heart of Sucre, and some say of Bolivia due to their historical significance in Bolivia's growth and independence.
After resting in the shade at the Plaza for a while, we noticed that it was surrounded by stalls selling food and drinks, and there was folk-dancing and singing starting up, and lots of music.
 |
| Festival of the Virgen de Guadalupe parade, Sucre (UNESCO), Bolivia |
Then a parade began - we had arrived in the middle of a celebration. We learned later, that it was to celebrate the Virgen de Guadalupe Festival.
The Virgin of Guadalupe (also known as the Black Madonna), is the patron of Sucre. The Virgin is revered in most Catholic countries and was introduced to Sucre, in 1601 by the Spanish Jeronymite friar Diego de Ocaña.
We found seats in the temporary stands around the Plaza, and watched with great interest and enjoyment as men and women of all ages and many ethnicities paraded by.
 |
| Festival of the Virgen de Guadalupe parade, Sucre (UNESCO), Bolivia |
There were so many people dressed in a huge range of costumes and colours. We decided there were more people in the parade than in the audience!
We spent quite a bit of time watching and being entertained, before walking around to see more of this lovely city.
The next day, we walked around a different part of the city, heading toward more beautiful white buildings.
 |
| Teatro Gran Mariscal, Sucre (UNESCO), Bolivia |
On that walk, we found the neoclassical, slightly art-deco looking Teatro Gran Mariscal which sits across from the Plaza de la Libertad.
That plaza, while being much smaller than the Plaza 25 de Mayo, is just as important as it contains a tall white obelisk commemorating the 1809 Declaration of Independence.
Just up the road, we found the attractive and white neoclassic style Supreme Court of Justice. Opposite that we found a beautiful park with a huge white arch at its entrance.
 |
| Marg with the tiny replica Eiffel Tower in Simón Bolívar Park, Sucre (UNESCO), Bolivia |
It was Simón Bolívar Park, a large green and leafy park containing, among other things, a small replica of the Eiffel Tower that kids can climb on.
There was also the Bicentennial Fountain that has musically coordinated coloured water displays, many food stalls, play areas for kids, and lots of places to sit and relax. We found it a joyous place with many families picnicking and playing together.
 |
| La Recoleta Monastery, Sucre (UNESCO), Bolivia |
We walked into the city several times over the next few days, and each time, our route took us past the La Recoleta Monastery and its plaza.
The Monastery was founded by the Franciscan Monks in 1601. It is huge and comprised of many white buildings linked by corridors with stone columns. It houses the Mirador Café which we visited on a number of occasions as it has good food and wonderful views over Sucre city centre.
 |
| Marg in the plaza at La Recoleta, Sucre (UNESCO), Bolivia |
The plaza has a beautiful fountain at its centre, and in the late afternoon the open space around it fills up with young people and families playing and socializing.
There were many other places that we visited, such as the St Francis Xavier University, one of the oldest in the world, museums, churches, palaces, and the National Library. Sucre is a very attractive city. We also found it a friendly city, and an easy place to explore over the days we were there.
But sadly, the day came for us to bid farewell to Sucre and move on to Santa Cruz, our next destination.
This is part of a blog series about our travels through the north-eastern countries of South America. The first blog in this series is called “In and around Santiago”.